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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble place securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that price.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.